After thirteen and a half months and 1,500 nautical miles, being on the water with our Salish Voyager “Wild Places,” seems like our normal life. Yet, every day is different. Every day has its own magic; we never know when it is coming. When we are wet, tired and seasick; out of the fog comes a pod of orcas.
While the decision to turn northward was difficult, putting the predominately Southeast winds at our back has resulted in days of delightful sailing. Being on a more relaxed schedule has allowed us to meander through the archipelago noticing the details, as well as catching and gathering a large part of our own food. Hitting a period of 25 knot winds and heavy rain just south of Juneau gives us time to reminisce about the most recent section of our trip.
Each island has its own character.
Prince of Wales Island brought us clear cuts, limestone caves, ancient petroglyphs, and Tlingit garden spots. The island also had something else unique in Southeast Alaska—a road system. Is it possible to hitch-hike with a Salish Voyager? We aimed to find out.
The birds we saw in early May have bred, nested, raised their young, and our now flocking up for their long journey south. There is the first hint of color in the foliage, and the storm systems are becoming longer and wetter. Change is coming for us as well. The final leg of our journey will be returning north up Lynn Canal to Haines.
It will take time to digest all we have learned about our boat, ourselves, and this wild coastline. We will report to you once more when the trip is over. We are thankful to Gig Harbor Boat Works, for their contribution to this journey, and creating a great boat to accomplish it with.
A magic moment appears as evening sunlight filters through the clouds.
With plenty of days with a marine forecast of South winds ten knots, we have enjoyed lots of delightful light downwind sailing on this leg of our journey.
Totem poles appeared between the trees just outside the village of Kasaan.
Dinner is fresh caught halibut, steamed lamb’s quarter, with thimbleberry, salmon berry and blueberry dessert.
Our motto, “When its capping, we’re napping,” keeps us safely ashore.
Throughout southern Southeast Alaska, clear cuts have been part of our reality. On Prince of Wales island the impact of large scale logging—roads and clearcuts—was nearly always visible.
By camping on shore we notice things that many people, who travel farther off shore, may not. The small tightly packed trees in a second growth forest make the hillsides look green from afar, yet don't allow enough light to penetrate for undergrowth to thrive.
In this old growth forest, there are trees of all ages, as well as bushes and vegetation on the forest floor for deer and other wildlife to feed on, as well as blueberries for us to eat.
With the magic interconnectedness of rural Alaska, a friend of a friend gave us a ride with our boat for 30 miles across Prince of Wales Island.
The West coast of Prince of Wales had an open ocean feel, yet gave us the protective comfort of a maze of islands and passages to explore. This one was so narrow we had to tuck the oars to slide through on a flooding tide.
Nancy enjoys our version of “motor sailing.” Having a sail assisted row, feels light on the oars and we can fly along with very little wind.
In the tiny town of Port Protection everyone gets around by boat.
In Port Protection, we met our friend Ben and his Melonseed. Two Gig Harbor Boat Work boats came nose to nose.
One of the joys of being out so long has been watching the baby animals grow up.
Wild Places at anchor in Honeydew cove on Kuiu Island.
Breakfast break on a cool, foggy morning after over two hours of rowing in rough currents and waves.
We celebrate the first salmon of the season by enjoying a favorite dish, fish on hot rock.